North Palisade
Polemonium

Rick Kent
Courtney Pursell

6/29-6/30/07

Notes

We did pretty well except on Polemonium where we took a direct ascent to the summit requiring 3 pitches.  While rather fun and interesting this ate up a considerable amount of time (almost 3 hours).  In comparison I think I heard Bob Burd mention it takes 20 minutes if you hit the class 4 route.

We brought a lot of gear which weighted us down.  Courtney brought my ice tool in addition to his ice axe.  I think we also brought some ice screws which were unnecessary.  The snow up the U-Notch was great for kicking steps and the bergshrund was easily passable on the right.

Ice was present on the class 4 descent on Sill so we rappelled.

Log

01:04pm - Left lower (overnight) trailhead
07:16pm - Galey Camp (via the snow slope under Temple Crag)

03:28am - Stepped onto the Palisade Glacier
05:06am - Reached the Bergshrund
06:32am - Reached the top of the U-Notch
07:08am - Started up the Chimney
09:32am - Reached summit of North Palisade
09:42am - Left summit
10:30am - Returned to the U-Notch
11:00am - approx - started up Polemonium
01:57pm - Reached summit of Polemonium
02:00pm - Left summit and proceeded toward Sill for our descent
05:52pm - Returned to Gayley Camp
06:25pm - Left Courtney and began descent back to trailhead
09:17pm - Returned to trailhead parking lot

Returned home at 2:15am

Stats

Time from Parking Lot to Gayley Camp: 6 hrs 12 mins
Time from Galey Camp to Bergshrund: 1 hr 38 mins
Time from Bergshund to U-Notch: 3 hrs 4 mins
Time from U-Notch to Summit of North Pal: 2 hrs 24 mins
Time from Summit of North Pal back to U-Notch (with 2 raps): 48 mins
Time from U-Notch to Summit of Polemonium (3 pitches?): 2 hrs 57 mins (ouch)
Time from Polemonium back to Gayley Camp (via Glacier Notch): 3 hrs 52 mins
Time from Gayley Camp back to Trailhead: 2 hrs 52 mins

Notes

Brought:

60m 9.1mm rope
BD Light Sabre bivy
Gregory Advent Pro pack (had to shoulder rope)
Several ice screws
Light rack
Montrail boots
No rock shoes

60m rope seemed just long enough for 2 pitches in the chimney.  A 50m rope may have made things more difficult.