Mount Agassiz (7/15/05)
Thunderbolt (7/16/05)

This was an overnight trip with the primary goal of bagging Thunderbolt.  Hiking with my friend Courtney we decided to hit Agassiz on the way in to Dusy Basin.  Having done Agassiz before by a less optimal route I suggested we head up on the top side of one of the main chutes (instead of the center of the chute).  This worked perfectly keeping us out of the loose scree/talus.  We had fine scrambling all the way to the top.

Our climb of Thunderbolt started early (before sunrise) the next morning and it too went well.  It was slow going up the long chute (Southwest Chute #1) with our heavy packs.  We brought rope, harnesses, cams, stoppers, etc. but didn't end up using any of it.  At the notch at the top of the chute we dropped over and then hooked around the front side of the peak via an easy 4th class route.

At least four groups ascended Thunderbolt that day.  The first group in front of us (lead by an SMC guide) had just rigged up a rope over the summit block just as we got there.  They were kind enough to belay Courtney and I before heading down.  Thus, of the many different ways to tackle the summit block, we ended up doing a toproped climb up the short 5.9 side.  It was short and sweet.

Gear

Crampons
Ice Axe
50m 10.5mm rope
4 cams
a full set of Stoppers
Harness
Several Quickdraws
Additional biners with slings
Webbing and cord for prussics
Rock shoes

To save weight we didn't bring:

Bear Can
Tent or Bivy
Stove