Album: Mount Sill - Swiss Arete
- Outdoor Adventures
- Album Date
- Date Added
- 1/1/2013 12:00:00 AM
Back to Index
5:43am. Big Pine Lakes trailhead. 2 or 3am would have been a far more realistic start time.
Sam Mack Meadow. 9:03am. 3 hrs 20 mins from the trailhead.
Our destination finally comes into view (center)
Gayley Camp. 10:35am. Just under 5 hrs from trailhead. Time for a much needed break.
2:32pm. We stashed our extra gear (crampons,axes,boots,etc.) at this narrow strip of loose rock in the L-shaped couloir. Got on the Swiss Arete around 3pm.
The step-around? Clipped into blue sling tied to a piton on the nose. Wasn't sure whether to go over or under the nose. Length of sling seemed to indicate going under and so we did. Supposed "step-around" seemed pretty trivial. Past the nose, climbed up a right corner (5.7?) to a large belay ledge. Belayed Darija from a piton backed up by cams. Then climbed a chimney (5.7?) exiting out the top right side. All the rest of the way to the summit seemed 4th class with a couple 5th class moves.
7:56pm. Darija finishes climbing up the last few feet to the summit. Total time on route: 5 hours.
Downclimbing the 4th class moves to get back to the L-couloir
Just below the Gayley chute on the Palisade Glacier. 10:17pm. Now just another 6 hours before we get back to the car (ugh!).
4:13am. Back to where we started. Car to car time: 22 hrs 30 mins. Uh, yeah, it was a long day.